Jemima Robinson about millinery

Who is a Milliner and what do they do? 

A milliner is someone who designs and/or makes accessories to be worn on the head, whether that be a classic hat such as a fedora, a cap, a 'fascinator' or maybe a head dress or headband. It is a highly skilled and technical craft requiring many years of practise and experience to achieve the exquisite level of perfection required. Personally I like to think of millinery as wearable sculpture, providing the hat is comfortable and secure there are almost no limitations to what you can put on one's head. Often uniform, dress codes or practicality limit apparel choice, but a hat can simply perch on the head without interference as an expression of personality.

Where did you learn Millinery?

I studied an HNC in Millinery at Leeds College of Art where I was taught by the award winning milliner Sharon Bainbridge. Alongside the teaching of classic millinery techniques I had the opportunity to explore the potential of other disciplines such as jewellery, photography and woodwork which challenged me to incorporate unusual materials in my work. I would recommend the college without hesitation to any one wanting to study the arts, it has such a supportive, creative and nurturing atmosphere.

Where do you get inspiration for your designs?

My inspiration is usually something unexpected rather than premeditated. If your mind is happy and free to wander it is able to convert the most unlikely of sights/sounds/smells/experiences into an idea. It's a bit like having a Rubik's cube in your head, instead of the colours there are memories and images attached to the squares, when I'm creating it's like I am fiddling with the combinations on the cube until suddenly a particular arrangement just 'clicks' and up pops an idea that is an amalgamation of all these experiences. I particularly enjoy walks in the countryside for collecting these 'stickers', where nature bombards you with such a diverse array of colours, light, textures and shapes that change on a daily basis. It is important of course to look at fashion trends but for me it's more about keeping in touch with what's going on rather than getting direct inspiration from them, it is the shapes and lines that I refer to which I think are the backbone of style. 

How would you describe the style of your hats?

They are modern, chic, and elegant with a quirky and playful edge to them. I am very keen on clean, simple and flowing lines, contrasts in texture, exploring unusual materials and above all the hat must be light, easy to wear and fuss free. I am not a 'frou frou and fascinator' person.

What materials and techniques do you favour?

I like natural materials that I can manipulate with my hands such as straw, felt, leather, cotton and linen. I don't like materials that are brittle, gaudy or resist. The materials I choose depend upon the collection/theme or commission, sometimes it is the material alone that informs and inspires my designs. This is often the case with found, up-cycled or scrap material, where you only get one opportunity to make the most of it, which might restrict but certainly directs the design. I particularly like working with wire too, it's great for providing lightweight support and fantastic for creating interesting sculptural forms. 

How did you become interested in millinery?

I was looking for a part time creative course that would fit around work and was local to me, and the millinery course at Leeds College of Art came up. I strongly believe in keeping traditional and skilled crafts alive and having an interest in fashion and textiles I thought millinery would combine all these things, which it does! Prior to starting the course I had no particular passion for hats but that soon developed upon starting the course. 

What tools do you use and how many collections do you design a year?

My tools include my hands (most important!), blocks (literally 'blocks' of wood that are shaped into a huge array of styles, onto which you stretch and form your material), hammer, pins, basic sewing kit, iron, steamer, good scissors, pattern master, plus a whole range of other stuff that I use from time to time. 

Generally a milliner, as with most fashion designers, will produce two main collections per year - Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer. However there are events throughout the year such as Royal Ascot, where the opportunity to commission a piece for someone to wear at such an event is considered particularly significant. Some milliners focus purely on wedding collections and so their design calendar will be scheduled to coincide with the height of the wedding season. At the moment I don't strictly design and make for the seasons, more with a general nod to the season though my choice of materials.

When and where will you be able to get hold of your collections?

At the moment you need to contact me directly (contact details follow this article) for a hat or commission as I don't as yet stock my hats in any shops. You will however be able to see my Spring/Summer 2014 collection on display at Ditto fabrics in Brighton (contact details follow this article) in April, where I will be creating head pieces to showcase their fabulous fabric. 

You offer a customised design service, how long does this process take?

This really depends on the complexity and specifications of the commission. There would be an initial consultation to take measurements, discuss ideas, style and size etc. followed by a second meeting to asses direction, progress, any changes and try on the 'skeleton' of the piece. The final fitting would ensure comfort, perfect fit and of course that the customer is happy. Three to four weeks would be ideal but for simple pieces or in certain circumstances it can be done in a week or two. 

What are your future plans for the business?

At the moment I am focusing on the brand identity and design personality of Twiggys Topknots. But looking forward I would like to find some stockists and gradually dedicate more and more time to the business as I take on more commissions.

Describe your experience at the Liberty Open Call.

It was both exciting and nerve wracking! I am a huge Liberty fan, having always admired their fusion of contemporary and traditional design within such an atmospheric and historic space. I waited a couple of hours to see the buyers, becoming increasing nervous as time went on. Talking to some of the other designers, finding out what they were bringing along and exchanging experiences was a welcome distraction! When I eventually met the buyers I was quite taken aback by how lovely they were, very welcoming and down to earth. In fact the informality caught me out somewhat and the pitch I had prepared went out the window, despite having my notes in front of me. I began by showing and explaining my hats and they asked me some questions that helped me find my stride. The feedback I received was very positive and they really liked my hats,  so I'm hoping to meet their millinery buyer in the near future. All in all it was a fantastic opportunity and I would definitely recommend any designer maker to give it a go.