From Japan to London and back again

Ami Yamashiro is a fashion designer, originally from Japan – a young owner of a label and clothes shop in Brick Lane: talking about fashion, career and giving advices to the beginners

Ami, let’s start with the simple questions: where are you from, what University did you attend and so on.

Well... I’ve been living in London since 19 years old; I graduated from the London College of Fashion.

What did you do after you graduated?

I started to work at the Portobello Market. It was for 5 years, and there I understood the basics of the fashion world practice, met a lot of new people and got a lot of experience and communication skills.

Could you describe your ordinary day at the Market at that time?

Ooh, if you work at such kind of place you have to come there as early as 5-6 in the morning - you simply spend around two hours on display. But it was a good market, it was a kingdom of handmade clothes; it gave me the foundation for what I’m doing now. I was working there twice a week. 

While I was studying at the University I created my own label, Orphanage, and I brought this label to the Market – my baggy trousers were really popular. They are actually the ones of my collection I’m selling in the 172 Shop together with other designers’ stuff now. 

So, after Portobello Market I found a new one – Sunday UpMarket in Shoreditch. At the time there weren’t many people there, so we were some kind of pioneers. There I met my current partner whom I share this shop with. 

How did you become an owner and how is it going?

I met a guy who was the owner of this shop at that period of time; after 5 years working at the Market I was ready for something more, I was full of experience and ready for responsibility.  I always knew – fashion is my world and I wanted to grow in this area. At the moment there are 5 people working in the shop: my partner, me and 3 people of staff. I got two trainers twice a year. 

What difficulties do you face keeping this shop?

First, of course this is about the rent – it’s incredibly expensive.

While Ami was chatting to me, a guy came into the shop and started to look at the stuff. He said he liked some trousers and asked for his size. At the moment he didn’t have money on him, so he wanted to leave his contact details to collect the item later on.  Trying to look cool he proceeded to tell us he was a dancer, and that he needed the trousers for his new video, and kept saying  ‘You know me!’...  I was a bit confused by Ami not treating him like her dream customer. After he left I resumed the conversation with a big question mark on my face. Aah...well...another problem we got here is thieves. This guy already stole a few items. He comes again and again. 

How is it possible: you know he is a thief, he knows that you know, and he still keeps doing that? 

Yeah, I know how it looks! This is terrible! You know this is so dangerous! Once I caught him leaving right in the doorway, he started to shout at me ‘Why are you holding me?! Don’t touch me!’ I was trying not to touch him or his bag; I dipped my hand into his bag straight away and grabbed trousers that belonged to our shop. 

Once he came back again and I told him not to come back ever again, that I know he steals things, and next time I’ll call the police and that he is simply going to be in the blacklisted. The day after he stole something else he entered the shop, but I told him not even to think about coming in! Then he said: ‘I know I stole trousers last time, but you know, guys I was dealing with – they made me do that... I brought money for the trousers’. 

Ironically I could say he is one of your ‘devoted customers’! Your shop sells stuff from different designers; it’s exclusive stuff presented in a few items. How do you deal with the designers whose items were stolen?

I just have to give them money back for the stolen items because it’s my responsibility. I can recognise thieves straight away, they behave in certain way I always know they want to steal something. We always have to keep an eye out. 

What plans do you have for future?

I’m going to Japan. I want to organise my own fashion company. 

So you’re done with London and going back to your homeland?

No-no, I will come back in a year and open my own shop somewhere in potential place. I just need to refresh my brain, to meet new hard working people, designers, to get new experience and contacts and to become stronger and get more inspiration. 

Why London?

This is a place of multi-culture; it’s easier to get new information here, it’s a good place for fashion. 

London is supposed to be the centre of fashion world, of new trends (although a lot of people would say the same about New York or Milan). So do you believe in it? 

I would say so... However, London Fashion Week is really bad. Paris and Berlin are much better.

Why?

London one... it’s just weak, everything is similar...

You achieved a lot in fashion business, give some advice for beginners!

Ok, here there are:

• Define what your style is
• Try everything you can
• Believe in yourself
• Work as hard as you can
• Try to meet the right people
• Don’t take risks at the beginning
• Start at the Market (because, first, to rent your own place is extremely expensive; secondly, it’s very hard to find any investors).

What is your everyday mission?

It is drawings and making sketches. I got a sketchbook where I keep all my ideas for the future to implementation in my new company. I want to start making my own clothes again. 

I know, you are also a dj. When did you start to play? Is it for serious?

No, it’s my hobby. I just love music. I started about one-two years ago; I play not often, but really enjoy doing that.

What makes you happy and what makes you sad?

Aah... Customers who come back to tell me that they are amazed by the clothes they bought in my shop make me really happy. The passing of time makes me sad. Also when I think of leaving London I become sad – I’m going to miss it.